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    2009米蘭春夏男裝9

    Marni                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

    方塊輪廓的襯衫、背部打著數條深摺紋的外套、以及內搭合身T恤的四分之三長度半袖外套,精緻卻不顯見的細節處理,像似女裝高級訂製服的內涵,而沒有誇張的外在表現。

    設計師Consuelo Castiglioni號稱拿手且偏愛"elegant volume."這款等級的優雅風格,卻在彈性十足的內褲鬆緊腰帶裝飾出現後完全破功!尤其是,竟然將寬大襯衫塞入褲腰其中的搭配,著實讓人發歔;不是說這樣的搭配對或者錯,而是在剪裁以及身型的細部處理方面,應該更加精緻細膩些罷了。

    貴族私校寄宿男孩模樣的型塑已經是Consuelo Castiglioni多次賣弄的主題,將女裝柔軟的設計概念融入男裝主線,也堪稱是設計師的拿手好戲,但從未像這次帶來令人沮喪且焦慮的心情,特別對於死忠品牌迷來說;雖然專屬於Marni的蛋白色/石灰色/粉膚色等中性色系還是能夠挑起我們心中的溫柔情緒,但是毫無新鮮感的造型、以及一點也不服膺品牌陰柔形象的不順眼模樣,讓Marni的男孩彷彿即將消失在2009春夏了。

    Marni 00001Marni 00002Marni 00003Marni 00004Marni 00005Marni 00006Marni 00007

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