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    2009米蘭春夏男裝10

    Roberto Cavalli                                                                                                                                                                                                     

    Roberto Cavalli 0001Roberto Cavalli 0002Roberto Cavalli 0003           Roberto Cavalli 0004         Roberto Cavalli 0005Roberto Cavalli 0006Roberto Cavalli 0008

    Roberto Cavalli 0010Roberto Cavalli 0011                                                                                Roberto Cavalli 0013Roberto Cavalli 0014

    有時候,或許時尚設計師不要公開宣布他們的設計靈感比較好就像這季的Roberto Cavalli春夏男裝,所有哪些喜歡Morocco風格、熱愛Paul Bowles的作品或Devendra Banhart的音樂的人,怎麼可能不直接聯想到這又是一場華麗的冒險,點破之後,似乎就流失了所謂天馬行空的原汁原味。於是穿泳褲的男孩、波希米亞旅人的頹廢裝束、羅密歐與茱麗葉舞台劇的彩排裝……這片大雜燴的裝飾風格,立刻就變成令人費解的慾望集中營。

    或許Roberto Cavalli老先生認為到了21世界的男人,真的就要愈來愈敢穿奇裝異服。但他沒有理解到他是時尚趨勢的創造人,而不是跟隨者。這些色彩斑斕、充斥花卉印刷的風格已經過去很久了,會再回來(意思是從暗夜酒店回到正式酒會)嗎?沒有人知道。但這系列也不是全然的俗麗,像棕櫚樹葉圖案的牛仔褲、日落風景的絲絹襯衫、天空藍湖水綠的上下身清新搭配都非常適合Roberto Cavalli男人在夏天裡當個獵豔高手,至於要不要獵艷,就看個人了。

     

    Salvatore Ferragamo                                                                                                                                                                                         

    儘管品牌剛過完80大壽,但Salvatore Ferragamo的男裝設計師Massimiliano Giornetti總認為,時尚應該是持續不斷的進化,男裝更不應該拘泥在傳統的正裝或穿著法則。透過剛發表的這個系列,Giornetti成功的塑造出一個喜歡搭配、穿著,並能樂在其中的優雅男人形象。至少第一眼就能從這個男人整體造型的合諧色調中發現,他是有經過精心打扮過的。這季短褲的比例不多,但是羅馬戰士涼鞋卻是不可忽視的必備單品。

                                                          Salvatore Ferragamo 0001Salvatore Ferragamo 0002Salvatore Ferragamo 0003
    這個系列的顯然受到當代藝術相當程度的影響,對色域光譜的敏感度相當高。從鉛白、淺灰、銀色、亮橘、拿鐵色(卡其色漸層到白色)、褐色、桃紅、寶藍等,彷彿午後的烈日透過一面窗玻璃折射出來的光影變化。儘管整體輪廓看起來寬鬆實穿,但仔細看卻仍覺得裝飾過多。就算說是召喚自大衛鮑伊的時尚靈感(又來了),也稍嫌失之於太女性化。除去大量運用的緞面色澤不說,圍巾、短風衣、窄腰帶、連衫褲讓人開始懷疑這究竟是一個活在怎樣世界的時髦男子。

     

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